A lazy weekend brunch where one sauce does double duty. Make the salsa roja first — it is the simmering bath for the chilaquiles, so the chips go in only at the very end to stay just-softened, never soggy. Char the corn for the esquites while the salsa cooks. Top the chilaquiles with egg and cheese and serve everything at once, hot. Tepache ferments 2-3 days at room temperature — start it a few days ahead of brunch.